This bandsaw re-saw fence was very simple to make. It consists of four pieces: three for the base, which is the part that slips onto the factory fence, and one for the front which is the tall section of the fence.
Some will say you need a way to account for blade drift, but I tested it by re-sawing a piece of black walnut and my blade seemed to track very well. If you needed a way to adjust for blade drift, you could add a dowel to the front. You could do this by cutting a section out of the dowel to create a flat area and attach it permanently with glue or with a screw from the backside temporarily. I actually created a jig from a 7/8″ wooden dowel to adjust for blade drift. I did this by removing a portion of the center section creating “legs” so that the dowel  would slip over the top of the fence and tighten down with a screw on the back side. Here are a couple of pictures…
​I didn’t include the dowel rod setup in the video for various reasons, but I at least wanted to show all of you here. Hopefully by explaining it and showing a couple of pictures it might help someone. To give you an idea of the steps I took, continue reading below…
TOOLS USED IN THIS PROJECT:Table saw (updated version):


Brad nailer:

Paste wax:

Glue applicator: ​


Straight edge:


​The first thing I did was measure my existing fence, the height (leaving about 1/8″ gap at the bottom) and width. Next I measured the width of my bandsaw table because I wanted to make my re-saw fence the same width as the table. The main reason was so that the new fence wouldn’t interfere with anything on the sides of the table. I could’ve made it the same width as the fence, but I just played it safe. Besides, I don’t see myself re-sawing anything massive on this bandsaw anyways. Ok, after measuring I cut the pieces out of some 1/2″ plywood material, which was two sides and a top for the base. Those pieces I assembled with glue and brad nails. If you watched the video, you saw the Pro Tip, but just in case you didn’t here it is…
Pro Tip: when shooting brad nails, turn your nail gun 90 degrees, or perpendicular, to the work piece your nailing into to prevent blow out.

​After the base was assembled I wanted to test he fit. I had to use a small amount of paste wax to get it to go on smoothly. As I mentioned before (and in the video) I left a small gap, about 1/8″, between the bottom of the base and the table. I did this because I knew the front, tall portion of the fence would rest on the table and I didn’t want the two working against each other. In other words, if they both (the base and the front fence) were dragging the table there might be a little more friction than you would want when moving the fence. I mainly wanted to make sure the fence would move freely and without a problem. The next thing I did, with the base still in place, was to rest the front fence portion against the base and make a mark along the back side of the front fence where it and the base met. This would tell me where to glue on the base and to also ensure the fence will be straight. After the gluing the two together, I measured and cut a couple of triangle supports to attach to the back side. Just eyeball where they need to go and glue them in place. Give them a little time to get tacky then shoot some brad nails into the triangles from the front and bottom to hold everything in place.

At the end of the day, this is a very basic re-saw fence, but maybe through this post and video you will find something useful. Please watch the video below. Thanks for being here.

Re-saw fence measurements: 6″H x 13.75″W x 3″D


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